Oceanography Questions
Duxbury Chapter 10

  1. What force creates normal ocean waves?
    Gravity
    Ocean currents
    Swimming fish
    Upwelling
    Wind

  2. What is the restoring force that allows the ocean surface to pass energy in the form of waves?
    Gravity
    Ocean currents
    Swimming fish
    Upwelling
    Wind

  3. What is Surf?
    Capillary waves generated by light winds.
    Fully-developed waves generated by strong winds.
    Waves that grow larger the farther they travel.
    Waves moving out of the generating area.
    Waves moving into shallow water and eventually breaking.

  4. What is Swell?
    Capillary waves generated by light winds.
    Fully-developed waves generated by strong winds.
    Waves that grow larger the farther they travel.
    Waves moving out of the generating area.
    Waves moving into shallow water and eventually breaking.

  5. What is the motion of water particles as ocean waves pass by in the open ocean?
    They oscillate in circles.
    They oscillate in ovals.
    They ride on wave crests.
    They vibrate in a direction parallel to wave motion.
    They vibrate in a direction perpendicular to wave motion.

  6. At what depth do waves begin to "feel" the bottom?
    1 wave height
    1 wavelength
    1/2 wavelength
    10 meters
    20 meters

  7. At what height to length ratio (H/L) do waves break or form white caps?
    1/1
    1/3
    1/7
    3/1
    7/1

  8. What kind of waves to surfers like?
    Capillary waves
    Collapsing breakers
    Plunging breakers
    Spilling breakers
    Surging breakers

  9. What factor(s) generally determine(s) the maximum length and height of ocean waves?
    Storm duration
    Storm fetch
    Wind speed
    All of the above

  10. What factor(s) limit(s) the maximum length and height of waves in a fully developed sea?
    Storm duration
    Storm fetch
    Wind speed
    All of the above

  11. What determines wave speed in the open oceans?
    Water depth
    Wave height
    Wave length
    Wind velocity
    All of the above

  12. What determines wave speed as surf waves approach the shore?
    Water depth
    Wave height
    Wave length
    Wind velocity
    All of the above

  13. As waves leave a storm area, what can be said about their speed?
    Longer waves outpace shorter waves.
    Lower waves outpace taller waves.
    Shorter waves outpace longer waves.
    Taller waves outpace lower waves.
    They gradually slow down after the wind stops blowing.

  14. Which of the following is not a valid wave phenomenon?
    Diffraction
    Interference
    Reflection
    Refraction
    Regression

  15. Which wave phenomenon refers to the bending of waves due to a change in speed?
    Diffraction
    Interference
    Reflection
    Refraction
    Regression

  16. Which wave phenomenon refers to the bending of waves when they pass through a narrow slit?
    Diffraction
    Interference
    Reflection
    Refraction
    Regression

  17. Which wave phenomenon sometimes creates standing waves?
    Diffraction
    Interference
    Reflection
    Refraction
    Regression

  18. Which wave phenomenon sometimes causes rogue waves?
    Diffraction
    Interference
    Reflection
    Refraction
    Regression

  19. How is wave energy distributed on an irregular coastline?
    It is evenly distributed along most any kind of coast.
    It is focussed in bays and dispersed on headlands.
    It is focussed on headlands and dispersed in bays.
    It is focussed on the right side of headlands in the northern hemisphere.
    It is focussed on the left side of headlands in the northern hemisphere.

  20. Which waves have the shortest wavelength?
    Capillary waves
    Gravity waves
    Internal waves
    Tides
    Tsunami

  21. Which waves have the longest wavelength?
    Capillary waves
    Gravity waves
    Internal waves
    Tides
    Tsunami

  22. Which of the following waves are generated by earthquakes and can devastate coastal communities?
    Capillary waves
    Gravity waves
    Internal waves
    Tides
    Tsunami

  23. How fast do tsunami waves typically travel in the open ocean?
    1,000 km/hour
    100 km/hour
    2,000 km/hour
    300 km/hour
    700 km/hour

Please report any errors in the exam or problems with the program to Dr. Heaton.
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